Fika in Stockholm

Fika is the Swedish term for a damned adorable concept. It describes a coffee break, generally in the afternoon, involving a sweet pastry. Kanelbullar (cinnamon buns) are the prevalent, popular choice.

I was devastated to learn that I'd been oblivious to Sweden's National Cinnamon Bun Day, or "Just another manic bun day" as stated in The Local, a Swedish English-language paper. October 4th it was.

I was wondering why I smelled cinnamony baked goods everywhere on the streets of Stockholm. Thought perhaps Stockholm just smelled that way, and it added to the allure of the city.

The pastry offerings at the fashionably old-school Vettekatten were too tempting to pass up. The hasty shot below is a little blurry because I was too eager to have at it. Great espresso macchiato, too.

One thing about Fika I found annoying. These places were packed, with every table taken. I was left wandering around the various rooms of these establishments, looking for a seat, coffee in one hand, pastry in the other, pacing there like a dimwit. Not sure about the seating protocol, in these joints, but eventually in each case, someone took pity on me and allowed me to sit with them.

Stockholm: Shrimp!

I've been eating a lot of tasty shrimp in Stockholm. I don't really know why it's so tremendously good here, but there you go. Super fresh, tasting of the sea. This dish was eaten at Lisa Elmqvist's bar in the Ostermalm's Saluhall, a rambling beautiful red brick structure jammed with foodstuffs for the buying, and the eating.

This little snack was purchased at the Fotografiska, a photography museum/gallery in Sodermalm. Had many lunches at museum cafes, as they tend to be good quality, and a little more reasonably priced in spendy Stockholm.

These dishes are variations of "Toast Skagen", basically a piece of toasted bread, with shrimp and other varied ingredients. The top dish doesn't show the chopped hard-boiled egg and white bread underneath the lettuce. The second shot shows shrimp over a great slice of brown bread.

With the amount of shrimp consumed on this trip, I'll come back even more pink.

On to Stockholm!

About to be strapped into a plane seat today for 8 hours, Chicago to Stockholm.

Traveling alone this time, which is unusual. Will miss Mr. Pants (and his amusing chatterings) greatly.

But, I'm calling this my "I vant to be alone" trip, because, like Garbo, I do want to be alone for a bit, somewhere I haven't been before, somewhere beautiful. Need to think about life and death and all of those heavy matters. Need to NOT be at work for a bit as well.

Some snarky comments have come my way about this- such as "Oh so you're doing an Eat Pray Love thing eh? Um, NO! At most it will be an Eat Eat Eat thing.

Will check out the Stockholm food scene, and maybe try the old traditional herring and aquavit. Lots of open face sandwiches should be coming my way, if the literature is to be believed. We shall see.

Skol!

June in Seattle

If you need a bit of warmth this autumn, go to June. The old Cremant space feels cozier, with warmer walls, and wooden tables, but retains it's cool factor.

We woke up our palates with gorgeous, crisp, radishes served with fleur de sel and butter.

Kumomoto oysters were out of this world, and I was worried when I read that they came with a peach chile granita, as I'm usually a purist with oysters. It worked beautifully. I seriously considered getting 6 more platefuls they were so insanely fantastic.

Mr. Pants got a wonderful Bavette steak with watercress and confit potatoes. Cooked perfectly, with enough sauce to swipe up with each bite. This is a terrible picture that doesn't do it justice.

I got the stuffed rabbit leg- great flavor, it did have the slight gamey texture, (it is bunny, after all) but still interesting. The creamed kale on the plate was plentiful, and I still wished there was more of it- it was that good.

Our friend boldly ordered the terrific (and scary) "Braised Lamb Neck" with hand cut pasta- served over an incredibly rich, hot broth. The waiter warned us that it was not for the faint of heart.

A Chevre creme brulee was subtle, but nice. It could have had more of that goaty flavor which I love particularly in desserts.

Bread pudding however was perfect, with just enough chocolate to add flavor and the warm, dense, soft slabs of bread were a textural marvel.

Highlights: Cocktails, oysters, steak, radishes, bread pudding.

Disappointments: Lamb neck could seriously freak out the more squeamish among us. Despite that, it was really fun to pick at, and the broth and hand cut pasta with it were superb.

Mr. Pants: A sour mood turned into a pleasant, sleepy one after eating here. Happy.

Sexy Beast - La Bête

You've created a monster, La Bête, and the monster is me. I'm afraid I'll be wanting to spend many an evening, and many a dollar at your gorgeous establishment.

The old Chez Gaudy space is anything but, with a feel that's Art Deco, Edwardian, and completely modern at the same time.

Everything was gorgeous- the people, the rich wood paneled ceiling over the bar, the tables and flatware, the metal work over the windows open to the rain, the molding on the ceiling and the round floral Edwardian ceiling light fixtures, which were little miniature chandeliers. It's a vintage dress of a place, made newly cool by timing and forethought.

Chilled cucumber soup with fresh chickpea fritter, red radish and creme fraiche. Soup was cool, minty, and somehow buttery -served on a delicate tray with matching metal-rimmed bowl. A modernized, tweaked falafel with the daintiest of presentations.

A mass of delicate corn gnocchi under a large pile of sweet dungeness crab meat was stellar.

We split the platter of expertly grilled, super-fresh Daurade, with pea vines, dried scallops and smoked bacon and every flavor worked. A fine, reasonably priced Gruner Veltliner paired perfectly with all.

Highlights: Grilled daurade, corn gnocchi with crab, ambiance.

Disappointments: The bill can add up, if you aren't paying attention. And we weren't.

Mr. Pants: Very, very impressed.

Walrus and the Carpenter - An Oyster Wonderland

The Walrus and the Carpenter was at capacity when we walked down the long hallway to the bustle of this sleek, crowded space, jealously ogling those sitting outside as we were turned away (for an hour or so). They called us when they had seats, and we perched at the bar, right in front of the masterful bartender who did a great job with our old-fashioneds. The wine list looked reasonable and well-chosen for oysters.

We wolfed down a wonderful house-smoked trout with lentils and creme fraiche, Kumamoto oysters (super fresh, tasty despite it being August) and a summery grilled zucchini with ricotta, walnuts and basil. Serrano ham with roasted apricots and almonds was a strange combo, but it worked.

We enjoyed the fantastic, soft, super fresh bread, with room-temperature butter, attentive service despite the packed room and the fact that they just opened.

I'm proud to say that I resisted quoting the Lewis Carroll poem though it was running through my head - particularly while eating the oysters and bread.

Highlights: Oysters! Smoked Trout, cocktails.

Disappointments: Very crowded, so expect a wait.

Mr. Pants: Happy as a clam.

James L. Haddix- July 8, 1945 - August 1, 2010

I will miss you, Dad.