Walrus and Carpenter Oyster Picnic!

I had misgivings.  I pictured standing in inclement weather, oyster juice running down into my sleeve as I balance an oyster in one hand, a glass of wine in the other, and try to keep my blowing hair out of my face.  We came armed with our oyster shucker, layered sweaters, and sturdy boots to face the beach on a December night. 

Turns out I needn't have worried, for the Walrus and the Carpenter Oyster picnic was a grand experience.  It even felt downright decadent to be sipping award winning wines out of stemware on the beach under a full (ish) moon, at low tide, with a bonfire and  with other Gortex-clad oyster lovers.  Wasn't cold for long out there, with the wine (Kunde Sauvignon Blanc and the CMS White) and the heat and glow of the fire.  

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Oysters were plentiful what with the hot-shot shucking masters out there shucking away for our dining pleasure.  We could shuck our own if we wanted, so Mr. Pants went oyster hunting, searching the dark water's edge for specific types of oysters. Questions were genially answered by host Jon Rowley, our local oyster guru, and by Bill Taylor of Taylor Shellfish Farms.

We slurped a variety of gorgeous oysters, the petite Olympias, sweet, plump Kumamotos, Totten Inlet virginicas, and Pacifics.  I have to say I loved them all, and was unable to tease out a favorite. 

Oyster stew (from Xinh's Clam and Oyster House)  at the end of the night was welcome and warming.  

I fear I'm forever spoiled now, and I'm not sure I can have oysters any other way than on a wintery beach in the dark, drinking wine.  Master shuckers don't hurt to have around either. 

Highlights: Freshest oysters on the planet, white wines. Beachy ambiance. 

Disappointments: Some might balk at the length of the bus ride, (about an hour and a half), but the video they showed help to pass the time, and questions such as "Do oysters have brains?" were fired at our host.  

Mr. Pants: Like a kid in a candy store. Tromping around on the beach in his striped fleece cap, picking up this and that oyster, getting tipsy. 

Seatown Snack Bar and Restaurant

Let me be clear: I love Tom Douglas. I think he does a grand job overseeing six restaurants and the Dahlia Bakery. I've never had a bad meal at any of these, and think it speaks volumes that his staff remains with him for years. 

That's why I was so disappointed to find myself muttering over the entrees at Seatown. 

Oysters were good, (and they had better be at a whopping 3 bucks each).  

My appetizer of smoked trout was wonderful. Good portion size, and the acoutrements paired perfectly (soft cream cheese) were interesting (duck-fried capers) and balanced the plate well (small tomatoes, blinis).  

Service was excellent, though it bordered on the obsequious. 

The entrees however, were shockingly dull all around, as in under seasoned, or needing a sauce.  Porchetta was a bit dry, turkey was boring (though, come on, it is turkey, the tofu of fowl).  At these prices I should not be muttering about a single thing. 

I've never had this happen at a Douglas joint.  I'm confident they will improve. For now, Seatown remains a decent spot for a glass of bubbly, fresh oysters or smoked seafood. 

Highlights: Appetizers, smoked trout, oysters. 

Disappointments: Entrees. 

Mr. Pants:  Grumbling.  Poked my side annoyingly until I agreed to blog about it.

Licorous

We were devastated to learn that Licorous, that casual little bar with just the right amount of swank, had scaled way back on their food offerings a while back. 

We'd been fond of wandering over for cocktails and dinner, though we called it "spa food" because the plates were precious (and preciously small).  We'd snack on flavorful corn chowder with Chanterelles, served in a demitasse, or a prosciutto-wrapped fig or three, followed by lamb chops a la plancha.  

So we were all a flutter to learn they're serving up Thai food every Monday with Sous Chef Wiley Frank, who is fresh from a year in Thailand. He's created a slightly refined version of fantastic Thai street food, described here at shophouse. 


Mini curried fish cakes were served in a bowl with thin vinegary sliced cucumbers, adding tang to a dish fragrant with fried basil. 
Next up was a lush, spicy, lime and chili-fragrant soft tofu laab (from Northwest Tofu Inc) with lettuce wrap - I love citrus flavors in food, and I demolished this like I was suffering from scurvy. Roasted rice, chilis and mint everywhere. 
A warming, saucy chicken curry noodle dish had crunchy fried noodles and fried shallots on top and just the right amount of pickled mustard greens....(similar to an authentic dish we had at Citrus Thai not long ago). 
Small pork spare ribs with Thai sea salt (samut sakhon) were tender, addictive little things. These paired especially well with the slightly sweet "St. Amour" cocktail- a bourbon-based drink with a toasted hazelnut at the bottom. 

Licorous is smart to do this. We are thrilled they are back at the game, and a tasty, more affordable game it is, too. 

Can't wait to try their Taco Tuesdays! Not for vegetarians, mind you, as they only have pork tacos for $1 dollar each. 


Highlights: Cocktails, soft tofu laab, spare ribs, dessert trio. 


Disappointments: Curry could have been a little more fiery, because I like curry that way. Still tasty.  


Mr. Pants: Content. Wants to return for Taco Tuesdays! 

The Book Bindery

I've always been annoyed by immediate reviews (or blogs) about restaurants that have just opened. It doesn't seem fair to me to officially review (or even blog about) a place that is brand new. But I couldn't stay away from the Book Bindery.

So, uh, just to be clear, this is not a real review, but more of a "Hurray-it's-finally-here-and-even-though-I-loved-every-minute-of-the-meal-and-thought-the space-was-super-cool, I-can't-say-a-whole-lot-about-it-in-fairness" kind of thing. 

It's excruciating to have to restrain myself in this manner. Will definitely be going back for more in a month or two, once the subtle whiff of fresh paint dissipates.  And we'll have a second glass of that toasty and insanely marvelous champagne (Agrapart 7 Cru Cote de Blanc) at the gorgeous marble-topped bar. 

Hopefully we'll see Patric Gabre-Kidan again, and his laid-back, quietly awesome and gentlemanly presence, who no doubt recognized us from many a night hunkered down over plates at all those other good restaurants he's been a part of. The postprandial peek inside the adjacent winery and bins full of grapes, was neat to see. 

Highlights: Can't tell you. (Handmade Cavatelli with forest mushrooms, Duo of Pork, a chocolatey pot de creme dessert with a salted graham cracker, the verrry drinkable Almquist Family Vintners 2008 North Ridge Malbec)

Disappointments:  um....I've got nothing.  

Mr Pants: More impressed than I've seen him in a while. Hankering to go back. 

foodie notes: Stockholm

Swedes apparently combat a tendency toward melancholia with strong cups of coffee and large quantities of cake. (See previous post) And lots of fast walking. Stockholm was full of tall, long-striding Swedes with a gait that was far quicker than my own, and I'm known as a fast walker. I waddled along, full of cake, trying to keep up.   

I liked this city of islands and bridges, tolling church bells, ringing bicycle bells, Baltic winds and long sunsets. 
 
Swedes also seem to have the best tasting tap water and best tasting shrimp I've ever consumed. 
I ate well. A good, heavy meal was had at Pelikan, meatball in a creamy gravy, mashed potatoes, lingonberries, with a gullet-warming Snaps (an aquavit, this one fragrant with Elderflower) as my dessert. 


Eriks Bakfickan was a great spot for dinner, where I opted for a lovely, rich bouillabaise (though they called it the "seafood casserole")

Ate this lovely duck confit over bacony saurkraut with a side of potato puree at a neighborhood bistro that I long to return to, called Aubergine. This was a perfect plate. I think of it still. 

The Ostermalm Saluhall, a great food-market, with eateries throughout, in a rambling red-brick building with a perfect lunch spot at Lisa Elmqvists, where I dropped shrimp on my shirt, and, though I loved what I ate, I envied the man next to me with his buttery fried perch and wild mushrooms.  I'd be eating at the saluhall daily if I lived in Stockholm. 

Last dessert in Stockholm- at the old-school, clubby Restaurant Prinsen:  It was as showy and decadent as the waiter, who flattered me with his "Mademoiselle" s and his overwrought descriptions of the dishes, including this one as "like gold."  It was, actually, like gold. 

I didn't get to most of the restaurants on my list. Though, I can't say I regret being persuaded to visit a suburban karaoke joint. Oh. My. God. Those Swedes sure can drink.  The woman who did a face plant onto the stage, the other woman who said she was from Brazil, started to dance lasciviously to someone else's song, occasionally flashing the now slack-jawed crowd.  Good times. Will have to return with Mr. Pants. 

Fika in Stockholm

Fika is the Swedish term for a damned adorable concept. It describes a coffee break, generally in the afternoon, involving a sweet pastry. Kanelbullar (cinnamon buns) are the prevalent, popular choice.

I was devastated to learn that I'd been oblivious to Sweden's National Cinnamon Bun Day, or "Just another manic bun day" as stated in The Local, a Swedish English-language paper. October 4th it was.

I was wondering why I smelled cinnamony baked goods everywhere on the streets of Stockholm. Thought perhaps Stockholm just smelled that way, and it added to the allure of the city.

The pastry offerings at the fashionably old-school Vettekatten were too tempting to pass up. The hasty shot below is a little blurry because I was too eager to have at it. Great espresso macchiato, too.

One thing about Fika I found annoying. These places were packed, with every table taken. I was left wandering around the various rooms of these establishments, looking for a seat, coffee in one hand, pastry in the other, pacing there like a dimwit. Not sure about the seating protocol, in these joints, but eventually in each case, someone took pity on me and allowed me to sit with them.

Stockholm: Shrimp!

I've been eating a lot of tasty shrimp in Stockholm. I don't really know why it's so tremendously good here, but there you go. Super fresh, tasting of the sea. This dish was eaten at Lisa Elmqvist's bar in the Ostermalm's Saluhall, a rambling beautiful red brick structure jammed with foodstuffs for the buying, and the eating.

This little snack was purchased at the Fotografiska, a photography museum/gallery in Sodermalm. Had many lunches at museum cafes, as they tend to be good quality, and a little more reasonably priced in spendy Stockholm.

These dishes are variations of "Toast Skagen", basically a piece of toasted bread, with shrimp and other varied ingredients. The top dish doesn't show the chopped hard-boiled egg and white bread underneath the lettuce. The second shot shows shrimp over a great slice of brown bread.

With the amount of shrimp consumed on this trip, I'll come back even more pink.